The Difference Between Cleansers and Exfoliators

Cleansers and exfoliators are often shelved together and sometimes confused, but they do different jobs. A cleanser is an everyday essential. An exfoliator is an optional extra that suits some skin and irritates others. Knowing the difference helps you avoid overdoing it.

What a cleanser does

Throughout the day, skin collects oil, sweat, pollution and product residue. Cleansers contain ingredients that lift these so they rinse away with water.

Types of cleanser

• Foaming and gel cleansers: suit normal, combination and oily skin. See Gentle Foaming Cleanser.
• Cream and lotion cleansers: milder, for dry or sensitive skin.
• Micellar waters and cleansing oils or balms: useful for removing makeup and water-resistant sunscreen.

How to cleanse

Wet your face with lukewarm water, apply cleanser with your fingertips, rinse and pat dry. Do this up to twice a day and after sweating. Scrubbing is not needed.

What an exfoliator does

Skin sheds dead cells constantly. Exfoliation speeds up their removal from the surface, which can leave skin looking brighter and feeling smoother.

Mechanical exfoliation

A tool or scrub physically removes dead cells: a washcloth, a brush, a sponge or a product containing fine particles.

Chemical exfoliation

Acids dissolve the bonds between dead cells. Alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic and lactic acid, work on the surface. Beta hydroxy acid, salicylic acid, also works within pores.

Who should exfoliate, and how

Dermatologists stress that exfoliation is not for everyone and that technique matters.

• Dry, sensitive or acne-prone skin: a washcloth and a mild chemical exfoliator are preferable; mechanical methods may be too irritating.
• Oily, thicker skin: may tolerate stronger chemical products or mechanical methods.
• Darker skin tones: aggressive exfoliation can lead to dark spots, so milder methods are advised.

Technique

• Apply a scrub or chemical product gently using small circular motions for about 30 seconds, then rinse with lukewarm water.
• With a brush or sponge, use short, light strokes.
• Never exfoliate skin that is sunburned or has open cuts or wounds.
• Follow with moisturizer straight away.
• If your skin becomes red, stings or peels, reduce the frequency or stop.

How often

Cleansing is daily. Exfoliating is occasional: for many people once or twice a week is the most their skin tolerates, and more aggressive methods should be used less often.

Can one product do both?

Some cleansers contain exfoliating ingredients. They can be convenient, but using them twice daily may be too much for many skin types. Having a plain cleanser for everyday use gives you more control.

Sun protection matters more when you exfoliate

Freshly exfoliated skin, and skin treated with alpha hydroxy acids, is more sensitive to sunlight. Wear sunscreen every day.

The bottom line

Cleanse daily and gently; exfoliate sparingly, with a method suited to your skin, or not at all. See cleansers in our skin care department.

Sources

1. American Academy of Dermatology. Face washing 101.
2. American Academy of Dermatology. How to safely exfoliate at home.
3. American Academy of Dermatology. Skin care basics.